上海视觉

上海视觉 ›› 2025, Vol. 0 ›› Issue (4): 34-43.

• 汉风宋韵:中国古代艺术符号的文化阐释 • 上一篇    下一篇

彩饰显明:莫里斯符号学视域下的宋制女服褙子色彩研考

滕兆媛1, 李泉霖1, 王聪2   

  1. 1 青岛科技大学青岛 266061
    2 苏州大学苏州 215031
  • 出版日期:2025-12-20 发布日期:2025-12-22
  • 作者简介:滕兆媛(1983— ),女,东华大学博士,青岛科技大学艺术学院副教授、硕士研究生导师。研究方向为民族服饰及人工智能衍生设计。
    李泉霖(2000— ),女,青岛科技大学艺术学院硕士在读。研究方向为民族服饰及人工智能衍生设计。
    王聪(2000— ),男,苏州大学艺术学院硕士在读。研究方向为民族服饰及人工智能衍生设计。

Research and Examination on the Color of Women’s Beizi Clothing in the Song Dynasty from the Perspective of Morris Semiotics

TENG Zhaoyuan1, LI Quanlin1, WANG Cong2   

  • Online:2025-12-20 Published:2025-12-22

摘要:

关于宋代女性日常服饰颜色的观点抵牾杂驳,聚讼纷纭。其呈象与体义常以传世绘画为端绪,然则,用色理念与生活实践之间存在张力与裂隙。宋代女性生活色彩丰富多变,色彩研究必须认识到历史的参与者,即“人”的复杂性,并从日常生活的多重视角出发,才能在丰富纷杂的历史材料中括撮出女服色彩的具体写真。褙子是宋朝时期最具有特点和代表性服饰,适用人群极其广泛,充分体现了当时女性的审美趣味与生活需求。本文通过文献资料调研、图像研究、比较分析等研究方法, 将莫里斯符号学三分法与日本NCD色彩意向及SPSS统计方法结合,系统研究了宋制女服褙子色彩的符义、符义与符用特征,构建并拓展了中华传统服饰色彩研究的规制理路,研究成果直接关系到服饰艺术的基本问题,且观照服饰艺术研究的前沿领域,具有开阔的跨学科视野。

关键词: 莫里斯符号学, 三分法, 宋制女服褙子, 色彩研考

Abstract:

Perspectives on Song Dynasty women’s daily clothing colors are diverse and contradictory, with numerous scholarly disputes. While traditional analyses often begin with handed-down paintings, significant tension exists between color concepts and actual life practices. Women’s color usage in the Song Dynasty was rich and variable. Effective color research must acknowledge the complexity of historical participants and approach the subject from multiple perspectives of daily life to extract specific characteristics of women’s clothing colors from complex historical materials. The Beizi, being the most characteristic and representative clothing item of the Song Dynasty with its wide applicability, fully reflects women’s aesthetic tastes and practical needs of that era. Through literature review, image research, and comparative analysis, this study combines Morris’s trichotomy of semiotics with Japanese NCD color intention and SPSS statistical methods to systematically examine the semiotic meaning, significance, and usage characteristics of women's Beizi colors in the Song Dynasty. The research constructs and expands regulatory approaches to traditional Chinese clothing color studies, addressing fundamental issues in clothing art while engaging with interdisciplinary cutting-edge research areas.

Key words: Morris Semiotics, Trichotomy, Women’s Beizi of The Song Dynasty, Color Research