上海视觉

上海视觉 ›› 2025, Vol. 0 ›› Issue (1): 93-99.

• 艺术实践 • 上一篇    下一篇

当代隆林苗族的服饰演绎与文化身份表达

李林臻   

  1. 上海视觉艺术学院,上海 201620
  • 出版日期:2025-01-20 发布日期:2025-05-08
  • 作者简介:李林臻(1991— ),女,东华大学博士,上海视觉艺术学院讲师。研究方向为中国传统服饰文化传承创新研究。

Costume Performance and Cultural Identity Expression of the Contemporary Miao Ethnicity in Longlin

LI Linzhen   

  • Online:2025-01-20 Published:2025-05-08

摘要:

隆林各族自治县的苗族服饰是在多元文化互动下被赋予全新意义的“文化文本”,其服饰装扮在历时性的沉淀和共时性的聚合下,呈现出纷繁的变化与演绎。基于服装社会心理学的文化观点,将隆林苗族服饰置于历史与当下社会情境中加以分析,其变化中的服饰外观与文化身份表达存在互映关系。在历时性传承下,隆林苗族裙装中的装饰造型得以延续与强化;在共时性演绎下,隆林苗族服饰趋向实用,又深受多民族文化情境的影响,在调适与区融之下,历经改良、渗透并形成当地重彩添饰的地域特色。同时,隆林苗族在基于传统服饰的外观下还不断延拓出部分个性特色。这些丰富的服饰演绎共同构成了当地苗族人对于文化身份的积极认同、协调与重塑的表达。

关键词: 文化观点, 苗族, 服饰, 传承创新, 隆林

Abstract:

Miao ethnic costumes in Longlin Multi-ethnic Autonomous County represent a “cultural text” imbued with new meanings through multicultural interactions, exhibiting complex variations and interpretations through both diachronic accumulation and synchronic convergence. From the cultural perspectives of social psychology of clothing, analyzing the ethnic costumes of Longlin Miao in the context of history and contemporary society, there is the reciprocal relationship between evolving costume appearances and cultural identity expression. Through diachronic inheritance, decorative patterns in Longlin Miao skirts have been preserved and reinforced. In synchronic development, Longlin Miao costumes trend toward practicality while being deeply influenced by a multi-ethnic cultural context, developing distinct local characteristics of rich color embellishment through adaptation, integration, improvement, and cultural permeation. Additionally, the Longlin Miao people continue to develop individual characteristics while maintaining traditional costume appearances. These diverse costume interpretations collectively represent the local Miao people’s active identification with, coordination of, and reshaping of their cultural identity.

Key words: Cultural perspective, Miao, costume, inheritance and innovation, Longlin